Another, a distant relative of the Bloody Maria, consists of carrot, lime, cilantro, and tomato-infused tequila. One cocktail, made with gin, celery shrub, soda, and tonic, is outfitted with a cucumber ice cube. There are five cocktails to start, each accented with thoughtful touches but a far cry from the sophisticated beverages at bars under the Cocktail Kingdom umbrella. The drinks list is likewise going for simplicity. The food menu has been shortened to eight or so dishes - chicken parm sliders, vegan mini-corn dogs, and a strawberry-chardonnay ice cream made in partnership with Mikey Likes It - that can be prepared from a small kitchenette attached to the bar.
With Thief, he’s mostly trying to have a good time. “Looking back, I think that was a mistake,” he says. The bar debuted with a lengthy menu of charcuterie and other meats, prepared in a kitchen that was smaller than its ambitions. When Swine opened in the West Village in 2012, McNulty felt like he had “something to prove,” he says, having just come off a stint working with acclaimed West Village restaurateur Gabriel Stulman on the openings of Fedora and Jeffrey’s Grocery. “I was trying to create a place that I really wanted to go to and haven’t found yet.” The corner bar is meant to be “an elevated neighborhood” hangout, a bar one half-step up from a dive, says McNulty, where customers can sip small-production orange wines and tall boys of Miller High Life at the same table. Thief, named after the piping tool used to extract alcohol from barrels, opens at 595 Union Avenue, at North 11th Street, on June 23. John McNulty, the cocktail veteran behind Swine - and later, acclaimed West Village bar Katana Kitten - is branching out with his first standalone project, a loosely ’80s-themed bar in Williamsburg.
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